Sam and I scored this awesome farmhouse sink in the clearance section at Ikea. Wait! Is this news to you? Did you not know about Ikea’s clearance area? Holy cow! This blog post is possibly changing your life. I love this. Consider your mind blown and you are welcome.
Wow. Sorry for geeking out for a second. I am back. As I was saying, Sam and I found this incredible find of a sink and could not resist the deal. We desperately needed a new kitchen sink in our Zest studio, so it was really easy to justify the expense. However, we “sat on it” for over a year since it required building a countertop, outfitting it with the correct plumbing and buying a faucet. Yep, we literally bought a project. Today, I am here to say that the sink has officially been built and installed…and I can’t wait to share it with you!
2 – 2×4 @ 23 1/2″ [front and back sides]
2 – 2×4 @ 24 1/4″ [left and right sides]
2 – 2×10 @ 37″ [back legs]
2 – 2×4 @ 37″ [sides of front legs]
2 – 2×10 @ 30″ [fronts of front legs]
2 – 2×4 @ 27 1/4″ [sides]
1 – 2×8 @ 23 3/4″ [back]
9 – 1×8 @
2 – 1×8 @ 31″
(bottom shelf slats)
2 – 1×8 @ 27 1/4″
1 – 1×4 @ 27 1/4″
1 – 1×6 @ 27 1/4″
2 – 1×10 @ [side rims]
1 – 1×4 @ [back rim]
There is nothing fancy about this structure. No dovetails or 45 degree cuts. Simply use wood glue and wood screws to attach all four pieces at right angles to make a square.
Start by assembling the base square. My above cut list reflects the size of my sink, so your cuts may need to vary a bit if you attempt this project based on your exact sink dimensions.
Once your base is built, make the top framework. Since my sink is farmhouse style with a front bib, I made the top only three sided. I will come in later with a lower support front legs to hold my sink up under the apron of porcelain.
Then I attached my “legs” so that I could attach my top framework to my base framework easily. Since I wanted my standing sink to have some heft, I chose to use 2×10’s for facing the front legs. Note that I cut them shorter so that they will slip under the apron of the sink. As will all the construction, I used wood glue and wood screws for sturdiness.
The sink fit perfectly! Always “measure twice and cut once!”
Now it’s time to make this basic framework look cute! I used some 1×4’s to create siding and some 1×10’s to create a “countertop” for my freestanding sink.
The last step of construction was to cover the base with slats for a shelf. Since I didn’t want to bust out my table saw (translate: lazy girl), I used
Before using silicone caulk to affix my sink in place, I used our favorite steel wool and vinegar technique to age the wood. Simply “paint” on the vinegar with steel wool and let it dry. I did two coats to get my desired color. Then I sealed my work with two coats of Spar Varnish. Since it is made for boats, I figured it could hold up to some occasional splashing!
Once everything was sealed and the sink was caulked into position, it was time to install the faucet and plumbing. Hahaha I think I will save that tutorial for another day! Just make sure to wear a belt when installing your sink 😉
Sam was pretty stoked on finally having a tall sink for washing dishes and craft supplies in our studio…FINALLY! (Even if her expression says otherwise in this photo lol)
I personally love how the rustic wood compliments the farmhouse sink style. It looks amazing! And it is beyond cool that it is freestanding and so compact without feeling flimsy. This would be perfect in so many different spaces!
Happy crafting and woodworking, peeps!